Question

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Acid Dyes for Wool
Before the introduction of premetallized
dyes on nylon fibers, acid dyes were already
being subdivided into groups whose
names still endure and reflect the wool
processing technology for which they were
developed. These include the strongly
acidic, level dyeing or equalizing acid
dyes; the fast acid or half milling dyes; the
acid milling dyes; and the neutral dyeing
or super milling dyes. The word milling
refers to the processes by which wool
fabrics were converted into felts by mechanical
beating treatments in alkaline
solutions. Dyes which could be applied to
the wool fabric prior to milling and which
survived the alkaline treatment were fast
to milling.
Wool dyeings are generally carried out
at the boil for about an hour. The dyebath conditions necessary for applying these
subcategories of acid dyes to wool are:
• Level Dyeing Acid Dyes: 2-4% sulfuric
acid owg (pH 2.5-3.5), plus 5-10% owg
sodium sulfate for added leveling
• Fast Acid Dyes: I-3% acetic acid owg
(pH 3.5-5.0), plus 5-10% owg sodium
sulfate
• Acid Milling Dyes: ca. 4% ammonium
sulphate owg, plus acetic acid or
ammonia (to pH 5.0-7.5), with the usual
addition of 1-2% owg of an organic leveling
agent
• Super Milling Dyes: as for acid milling
dyes without the acid (pH ca. 7)
It may now be apparent that the level
dyeing acid dyes must have intrinsically
iou* substantivity for the wool and have to
be induced to dye by lowering the pH,
which in turn generates a higher net
positive charge associated with the fiber
molecules (7). In other words, adding acid
increases the substantivity of the dyes for
the fiber and for these particular dyes the
ionic (coulombic) attraction between their
anions and the fiber cations is the predominant
form of dye-fiber attachment.
At the other end of the scale, the super
milling acid dyes have high substantivity
and even in the absence of acid (pH ca. 7.
or neutral) they are still strongly attracted
to the fiber. For these dyes, the contribution
of hydrophobic bonding between dye
and fiber is going to be much greater. To
underscore this, some of the early super
millingacid dyes actually have long hydrocarbon
chains included into their dye
molecules; e.g.. C.I. Acid Blue 138 which
has a hydrocarbon chain 12 carbon atoms long ,C12H25.

Answer 1

谁让你都拜托我了 不翻都不好意思……如有不够专业之处还望见谅：）

毛织品酸性染料

在引进用于尼龙纤维上的预金属喷镀染料之前，酸性染料已经被细分成几类，这些分类的名字一直沿用至今并且反映了毛织品处理技术的发展。其中包括强酸性、匀涂染色或匀染酸性染料、抗褪色酸性或半耐缩绒染料、酸性耐缩绒染料，以及中性染色或高耐缩绒染料。 混炼一词是指将毛织品纤维通过在碱性溶液中的机械敲打转换成毛毡的过程。 在混炼之前能够在毛织品纤维上使用的染料以及耐得住碱性处理的染料混炼速度比较快。毛织品染色一般要在沸点温度下进行一小时左右。 将这些分类的酸性染料用于毛织品的必要染浴条件如下：
• 匀染酸性染料: 2%-4%硫酸owg(owg指的是按物体重量计算)(pH 2.5-3.5)，每增加一级加上5%-10%硫酸钠owg
• 抗褪色酸性染料: 1%-3% 的乙酸owg (pH 3.5-5.0)， 加上 5%-10%硫酸钠
• 酸性耐缩绒染料: 约4%硫酸铵owg，加乙酸或氨(至pH为5.0-7.5)，一般情况另外添加1-2%的有机匀涂剂
• 高耐缩绒染料: 对于不含酸的酸性耐缩绒染料(pH约为7)，有一点可能不是很明显，那就是匀染酸性染料必须对于毛织品具有固有的直接上染性，而且必须通过降低pH进行引导染色，这样便又会产生与纤维分子相关的更高的净正电荷。换句话说，增加酸会提高染料对纤维的直接上染性，对于这些特殊染料来说，其中的阴离子和纤维中的阳离子之间的离子间吸引力(库仑力)是染料纤维附着的主要形式。相对的另一方面，高耐缩绒酸性染料具有较高的直接上染性，即使没有酸有存在(pH约7左右或为中性)，这种染料也能牢固地附着在纤维上。对于这些染料来说，染料与纤维之间的疏水性结合作用会更大。为了强调这一点，一些早期的高耐缩绒酸性染料实际上有很长的疏水链包含在染料分子当中，例如C.I. Acid Blue 138，就有着12个碳原子长的疏水链，即C12H25。

Answer 2

用于毛织品的酸性染料
在介绍尼龙纤维上的金属络合染料之前，酸性染料已经被细分成几个组，他们的名字一直保持并反映着毛织品处理技术的发展 这些染料包含了强酸、匀染或匀染酸性染料、耐酸或半耐缩绒染料、酸性耐缩绒染料，以及中性染料或高耐缩绒染料。 耐缩绒表示毛织品通过在碱性处理下的机械压力转换成毛毡的过程。 染料应用在毛织品上比用字耐缩绒上要好，毛织品没有经过碱性处理。 毛织品染色一般要在沸点的温度下进行一小时左右。 这些用于毛织品的各种酸性染料的染浴条件如下： • Level Dyeing Acid Dyes: 2-4% 硫磺酸（ owg指的是按物体重量计算） (pH值 2.5-3.5), 加上 5-10% owg 附加级别的硫酸钠 • 耐酸性染料: I-3% 的乙酸 (pH值 3.5-5.0), 加上 5-10% 的硫酸钠 • 酸性耐缩绒染料: ca. 4% 的硫酸铵, 加乙酸或氨 (最高 pH值 5.0-7.5), 正常添加1-2% 的有机匀涂剂 • 高耐缩绒染料: 酸性耐缩绒染料不含酸

只翻译了一半，没时间了