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There are two major basic pattern generation methods in conventional garment design.
One is the flat pattern process, where patterns are designed two-dimensionally and the
other is the 3D draping method, where a flat fabric is directly formed into a garment on
a mannequin. Although it is more difficult to get garment patterns by the latter
method, it is more appropriate to make well-fit patterns than the former method and
recent studies on automatic pattern generation have focused on the latter method. In
that case, some cut lines called as darts are necessary if the garment has undevelopable
patches. McCartney et al. tried to develop 3D surfaces using darts and to implement
such techniques into pattern generation (McCartney et al., 1999; Collier and Collier,
1990; Heisey et al., 1990a,b). However, full 3D human body data were not easily
accessible then that it was difficult to make practical garment patterns. Recently, due
to the advancement in non-contact measurement technology, 3D body data became
affordable and many studies have been made on this topic (McCartney et al., 2000;
Daanen and Water, 1998; Au and Yuen, 1999; Paquette, 1996). Kim et al. tried to
generate garment patterns by combining the 3D data of body and garment model.
They also developed an interactive pattern design system using a parametrically
deformable body model made from the 3D body scan data (Kim and Park, 2004; Kim
and Kang, 2002). However, there have been some problems that it is difficult to get the
ideal shape of garment by such methods and only the basic patterns can be obtained. In
this study, a garment is divided into two zones, one for fit zone and the other for
fashion zone. The fit zone is modeled by digitizing the body scan data so that it can
provide optimum fit as well as the ideal shape of the garment. The fit zone can be
reshaped and resized using basic anthropometric parameters that various sized fit zone
can be modeled from a single body scan data. The fashion zone is modeled using
parameters that determine the aesthetic appearance of the garment that users can
design garments with various silhouette intuitively. Finally, a flat pattern projection
algorithm was developed to make flat pattern pieces from three-dimensionally modeled
garment considering the physical properties as well as the producibility of fabric.

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